VITAMIN C (MAGNESIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE):
Description: Very stable vitamin C derivative (L-Ascorbic acid mono-dihydrogen phosphate magnesium salt) that does not degrade in formulas containing water. Light-stable and oxygen-stable. Purity >98.0%. White-yellowish powder, mild odor. Soluble in water
Solubility: Soluble in water (25°C), may discolor in pH < 6, best when used in emulsion based products at pH between 5,5 - 7. Mix well, allow time for lumps to dissolve.
Recommended dosage: 0,2 - 3, up to 10% of all mixture. (3 -10% in skin whitening mixtures. 0,5 - 2% protection from sun rays, after sun exposure, anti-aging preparations mixtures.)
Scientific name: Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (CAS number: 114040-31-2)
Recommendations: Vitamin C to dissolve in the warm water and then mix with all the other ingredients.
Storage conditions: Store in a dark place, away from the sun, can be stored in the refrigerator.
Shelf Life: Two years.
Vitamins letters have nothing to do with their operating principle, this is a very logical link to the sequence (A,B,C,D,E .. and so on).
Vitamin C comes in many forms, with ascorbic acid being the most common. Other forms of vitamin C include magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, L-ascorbic acid, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl glucosamine, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.
Several types of vitamin C descriptions:
L-ascorbic Acid aka Ascorbic Acid (AA):
AA is the water soluble, biologically active form of vitamin C found in nature. This is the form the body uses to build skin, repair wounds, and protect itself from disease and disorder. Be careful of any vitamin C serum that turns from clear to yellow, tan or brown. It contains AA that’s being oxidized by air and light. Some manufacturers color their solutions orange to hide what’s going on.
Ascorbic Acid Phosphate (AA2P):
These are different names for essentially the same derivative of AA formed by adding magnesium phosphate in a process known as esterification. The addition of the phosphate raises the pH level ascorbic acid remains stable in when in solution. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is another vitamin C derivative synthesized to deliver the same benefit. Ascorbic acid naturally occurs at a pH of around 3,5 which is fairly acidic. Its acidity creates problems in emulsions. Emulsions are carriers like lotions and creams formulated to make products look and feel nice. The addition of a phosphate group to ascorbic acid, whether magnesium or sodium, raises the pH level it can survive in to greater than 7.
Ascorbyl palmitate aka Ascorbic Acid-6-Palmitate (AA6P):
This is another ester of AA using palmitate (palmitic acid) to form an oil-soluble molecule. The idea behind creating an oil-soluble derivative is to enhance penetration through the stratum corneum (SC). The SC contains a large number of lipids (fats) by Nature’s design to help keep out pathogens. Lipid soluble (oil soluble) derivatives are proven to penetrate more readily, however there are major problems with making an AA derivate oil soluble. In the meantime, if you use a product containing ascorbyl palmitate, be sure to stay out of the sun. Under UV exposure, ascorbyl palmitate is toxic to skin cells and contributes to disease states including skin cancer.
Etrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (ATIP):
Ascorbyl tretaisopalmitate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate are two names for the same molecule. The first (ATIP) is the chemical name while the second (tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate) is the marketing name. It is likely the marketing name was chosen to disassociate it from “palmitate” which as discussed above, is toxic to skin cells under sun exposure.
Liposome Vitamin C:
Encasing a molecule in a liposome is a technique devised by cosmetic chemists to impart stability and penetration properties to AA and other molecules. The molecule is wrapped in a bubble of lipids (the liposome) making it oil soluble which is a really bad idea when it comes to vitamins. Worse, chemists use ascorbyl palmitate when making liposome vitamin C. The addition of more lipids (the liposome) may only worsen the ingredient’s toxicity.
This article will be dedicated to explore Magnesium-L-ascorbyl-Phosphate (VC-PMG). Usually used for low vitamin C oxidize quickly darkens, not suitable for use in cosmetic media. This form of vitamin C (Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate ) is stable and it is therefore advisable to use cosmetics.
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is the "real" ester-C, a more stable form of Ascorbic Acid and will stimulate collagen synthesis.
This vitamin c form not usually used in food of diet industry, it is fits very well in cosmetics. This vitamin (Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) is highly concentrated so it should be used in small doses. Side effects wasn't observed.
Side effects: There are no adverse side effects to using Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP), although those with sensitive skin may need to be aware of vitamin c's acidic and exfoliating effects. However, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) is generally considered more gentle than traditional vitamin c and therefore safer on sensitive skin.
Vitamin c regulates the synthesis of collagen and it does this by hydroxylating collagen which makes it more stable and improves the way it supports the epidermis.
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate not only reduces melanin production but it also reduces oxidation of the melanin that is produced. It’s also thought to reverse the conversion of Dopa to o-Dopa quinone (which is a skin pigment).
Skin levels of vitamin c drop 425% by the time a person reaches middle age. Vitamin c enables every step of collagen production from stem cell activity to the structural integrity of the skin matrix. The only way to increase skin levels is to apply vitamin c topically.
Vitamin c is naturally found in skin (mostly in the epidermis, some in the dermis) and it’s role in skin biology is well documented.
Vitamin c is a chemical called ascorbic acid that is naturally occurring in skin. It is known to play a role in collagen production. In addition, when topically applied it is thought to help heal acne, increase the barrier function of skin to decrease moisture loss, protect from UV radiation, and prevent age spots.
Although vitamin c is not a sunscreen but it protects skin from the free radicals that are caused by UV exposure. It’s been shown to reduce lipid peroxidation, limit the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines, protect against apoptosis (or cell death) and to reduce redox-sensitive cell signaling.
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BASE OILS: 70
ESSENTIAL OILS: 113
HERBAL DISTILLATES: 37